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Weekend Review: King Corn

Americans eat more than a ton of corn every year. Literally, a ton. Right now, you’re thinking, "There’s no way. No one eats that much corn, even in August." Well, that ton is not really corn in its unsullied, fresh-from-the-field, bought-at-a roadside-stand form. Nor is it in its canned-creamed-or-not form. Most of the corn we eat is in the form of processed additives and sweetners. Green Options’ Philip Proefrock wrote about how we eat corn, and why we eat so much of it. In the new documentary King Corn, director/producer Aaron Woolf attempts to bring the prevalence of corn to the big screen.

King Corn focuses on co-producers Ian Cheney and Curt Ellis as they move to Iowa, rent an plot of farmland, and attempt to grow an acre of corn using typical industrial methods: genetically modified seeds, nitrogen fertilizers, powerful herbicides, and government subsidies. They show us exactly how industrial corn production works today, from seed to table, in the convoluted journey of a commodity. From Ian and Curt’s one acre, they harvest enough corn to make 57,348 sodas, 3,894 burgers, or 6,726 boxes of cornflakes. And yes, corn is a major ingredient in all of those foods.

The two major corn byproducts King Corn focuses on are high fructose corn syrup (HFCS) and beef. The average American consumes 73.5 pounds of HFCS per year, mostly in the form of soda. Ian and Curt talk to a cab driver whose family is plagued by diabetes and who lost 100 pounds, just by cutting soda out of his diet. They also visit a beef feedlot: a large percentage of corn grown in the US goes to feed beef, even though cows’ bodies are not designed to eat corn and it can make them seriously sick and definitely uncomfortable. But, as the panoramic shot of a feedlot populated by 100,000 head of cattle shows, indigestion is the least of most cows’ worries — they barely have room to turn around on their way to the slaughterhouse.

Cheney and Ellis are fairly charming, but leave little impression on the viewers other than they seem like nice guys with whom to share a beer. The time spent on the backstory of their families’ connection to Iowa is unnecessary and detracts from more content Woolf could have included about the impact of corn: namely the environmental impacts of industrial corn production at the scale we’re at right now. Just when I felt the filmmakers were about to talk about the degradation of topsoil, the carbon impacts of CAFOs and corn-fed beef, or the externalities created from industrial agriculture, they skirted away and went in another direction. And although they do inform on the gross use of farm subsidies and how those subsides have changed over time, they neglect to mention the impact of government subsides to American corn farmers on corn farmers in other countries, namely our Mexican neighbors.

However, industrial agriculture is a wicked problem, and the filmmakers do note that they wanted to focus on the food system. In my mind, though, you can’t talk about the problems with the food system without talking about the condition of the land we use to grow our food. With the environment so prominent in current discourse, one would think they would have at least touched on that area.

Despite this, I was entertained and informed, and not just because I’m a born-and-raised Iowa Girl. The vast majority of Americans have no idea how their food is produced, and King Corn gives a general glimpse into what Old MacDonald’s farm has become. If you liked Super Size Me, Sicko, or The Future of Food, King Corn is a hybrid of the three, and well worth checking out. Just don’t expect green themes to be prevalent.

4 Recommendations

4 Responses to “Weekend Review: King Corn”

  1. Bobby B. Says:

    How does being anti-corn and anti-industrial farming playout with being pro-ethanol? Surely the problems mentioned with “big corn” are shared by other ethanol feedstocks such as sugar beets and sugar cane.

  2. Kelli Best-Oliver Says:

    Ethanol wasn’t even mentioned in King Corn, which was really interesting to me. Obviously, if the filmmakers aren’t going to mention environmental problems due to lack of time, opening the can of worms that is ethanol wasn’t going to happen, but one would think they would at least mention the debate about ethanol and/or biofuels, particularly since it’s so hot in Iowa right now.
    Although, if I had to guess, I doubt the same problems that "big corn" contribute are as pronounced with sugar cane or beets (at least in the US), simply because we don’t grow nearly as much of those crops here. In fact, our massive growing of corn (and the subsequent manufacture of HFCS) probably means lack of growth in the sugar industry. But that’s just my unresearched speculation.

  3. Bobby B. Says:

    I would speculate that along the Gulf Coast sugar cane production trumps corn. From the flurry of sugar-to-ethanol factories that I have seen built and those on the horizon, I would assume that similar problems are in this industry’s future. Personally, I don’t feel that sugar beets are fit for human consumption and regard corn as only partially so. If we are not going to use them to fatten livestock, I have no problem with processing them into fuel; as long as real sugar becomes the sweetener of choice.

  4. Ecoscraps » Blog Archive » Corn Allergies in a Corny World Says:

    […] has King Corn subject Curt Ellis, currently taking part in the corn-free diet King Corn Challenge, penning an […]

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