Weekend Review: King Corn
Americans eat more than a ton of corn every year. Literally, a ton. Right now, you’re thinking, "There’s no way. No one eats that much corn, even in August." Well, that ton is not really corn in its unsullied, fresh-from-the-field, bought-at-a roadside-stand form. Nor is it in its canned-creamed-or-not form. Most of the corn we eat is in the form of processed additives and sweetners. Green Options’ Philip Proefrock wrote about how we eat corn, and why we eat so much of it. In the new documentary King Corn, director/producer Aaron Woolf attempts to bring the prevalence of corn to the big screen.
King Corn focuses on co-producers Ian Cheney and Curt Ellis as they move to Iowa, rent an plot of farmland, and attempt to grow an acre of corn using typical industrial methods: genetically modified seeds, nitrogen fertilizers, powerful herbicides, and government subsidies. They show us exactly how industrial corn production works today, from seed to table, in the convoluted journey of a commodity. From Ian and Curt’s one acre, they harvest enough corn to make 57,348 sodas, 3,894 burgers, or 6,726 boxes of cornflakes. And yes, corn is a major ingredient in all of those foods.
The two major corn byproducts King Corn focuses on are high fructose corn syrup (HFCS) and beef. The average American consumes 73.5 pounds of HFCS per year, mostly in the form of soda. Ian and Curt talk to a cab driver whose family is plagued by diabetes and who lost 100 pounds, just by cutting soda out of his diet. They also visit a beef feedlot: a large percentage of corn grown in the US goes to feed beef, even though cows’ bodies are not designed to eat corn and it can make them seriously sick and definitely uncomfortable. But, as the panoramic shot of a feedlot populated by 100,000 head of cattle shows, indigestion is the least of most cows’ worries — they barely have room to turn around on their way to the slaughterhouse.
Cheney and Ellis are fairly charming, but leave little impression on the viewers other than they seem like nice guys with whom to share a beer. The time spent on the backstory of their families’ connection to Iowa is unnecessary and detracts from more content Woolf could have included about the impact of corn: namely the environmental impacts of industrial corn production at the scale we’re at right now. Just when I felt the filmmakers were about to talk about the degradation of topsoil, the carbon impacts of CAFOs and corn-fed beef, or the externalities created from industrial agriculture, they skirted away and went in another direction. And although they do inform on the gross use of farm subsidies and how those subsides have changed over time, they neglect to mention the impact of government subsides to American corn farmers on corn farmers in other countries, namely our Mexican neighbors.
However, industrial agriculture is a wicked problem, and the filmmakers do note that they wanted to focus on the food system. In my mind, though, you can’t talk about the problems with the food system without talking about the condition of the land we use to grow our food. With the environment so prominent in current discourse, one would think they would have at least touched on that area.
Despite this, I was entertained and informed, and not just because I’m a born-and-raised Iowa Girl. The vast majority of Americans have no idea how their food is produced, and King Corn gives a general glimpse into what Old MacDonald’s farm has become. If you liked Super Size Me, Sicko
, or The Future of Food
, King Corn is a hybrid of the three, and well worth checking out. Just don’t expect green themes to be prevalent.


A common question when talking to my students about the concept of vegetarianism is, "What do they eat?" … as if a meal without meat somehow loses it’s focus or validity. There are several schools of thought on what vegetarians eat in lieu of meat. One group says, well, nothing. Fruits, veggies, grains, beans, nuts (and dairy and eggs, if you so desire) are enough on their own and can produce substantial, flavorful meals. Another group often substitutes meat with protein-alternatives, also knows as meat analogues, or, more commonly, "fake" meats. Buddhist cuisine has used seitan, tempeh, and tofu for hundreds of years, and many other Asian cuisines often incorporates tofu into dishes.
When I talk to people about thinking sustainably, they inevitably ask for books to read, and although there are several books I love about sustainability, they’re all very specific to one area of sustainability. Want to read about food? Try Michael Pollan, Peter Singer, or
The
My husband and I went backpacking on the Appalachian Trail for ten days this summer, and we started off eating various energy bars because they were light and provided quick energy. However, we quickly grew tired of convincing ourselves that we actually liked eating them. I’ve never been a fan of bars: to me, they always seem like pathetic versions of what they claim to be. Chocolate-chip cookie dough? Cookies and Cream? Raspberry Strudel? Yeah, right. I’m friends with chocolate-chip cookie dough, sir, and your "bar" is not him.
America is becoming a land of foodies. From the popularity of the Food Network and shows like Bravo’s Top Chef, to the popularity of cooking gear stores like Sur La Table and Williams Sonoma, more and more of us are finding out how sublime and satisfying preparing and eating dishes at home can be. Just yesterday I lingered over a bowl of perfectly-ripe tomatoes from the farmers market, dressed simply with extra-virgin olive oil, salt, pepper, purple basil from my garden, and a little bit of grated parmesano-reggiano cheese.
Eaten in a school cafeteria lately? Chances are you'll be dining on processed, reheated food that helps tiny school lunch budgets stretch their pennies. In an attempt to make lunches healthier and more sustainable, the state of Oregon is taking significant steps towards increasing the amount of local food that goes into public school lunches.
Is there a more eco-friendly way to package milk besides plastic jugs and gable-top cartons? A UK company seems to think so. 